How predatory remodeling ruined my house in a matter of days after closing
My contractor spends all day repairing the holes in the existing ducts…
… and adding new branches off the main heating duct.
He also moves a cold air return that was improperly cut into the main return, and properly runs it through the wall and down to the floor.
Rebuilding the HVAC has an immediate effect on the air pressure. The basement level has a much more even distribution of heat and airflow, and the main level heat and airflow is elevated to proper levels ($124.10).
My general contractor builds a new soffit in the master bathroom above the tub, and properly finishes the end wall framing, attaching it to the joists.
A large batch of self-leveling concrete is mixed ($176.54).
The surface of the existing floor (with new filled drain trenches) is prepared with a bonding agent. The self-leveling concrete is poured into the laundry room and master bathroom.
My general contractor’s work is finished. But before he leaves, he points out that I have another major problem: None of the drywall was primed, and cheap paint was applied directly with a sprayer. It flakes off easily in large sheets.
I also receive an invoice for my general contractor’s labor: $3,880.00.
As this is our first house, we have no equity yet, so we do not qualify for a home equity loan for the repairs. Instead, we have maxed-out two credit cards at a total of $16,000. With our credit limit reached, we have no more financing available for big projects.
We have decided to use our limited cash flow to:
With the laundry room floor cured, I hook up the washer and dryer to the new water and HVAC connections. This is the first time we’ve had working laundry facilities in 7 1/2 months (since demolition began on June 25, 2013).
On this same day, the plumber bills me for parts used to date: $1,190.61. This does not include labor. I will be billed for additional parts and labor when the job is complete.
The plumber discovers that the refrigerator has been placed without a shut-off valve for the water / icemaker line, making it impossible to pull the fridge away from the wall without rupturing the line and spraying water everywhere.
Downstairs, this same water / icemaker line was installed with an illegal self-tapping saddle valve which pierces a main copper water pipe. These are not allowed in Minnesota (and a growing number of other states) because they are prone to leaks.
The plumber begins replacing all of the faulty copper water pipes in the house with pex piping, piece by piece.
He also adds a proper water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator.
Most of the new plumbing work is readily visible in the open walls of the downstairs bathroom.
A new silcock shut-off valve is installed in the mechanical room (instead of in a ceiling access panel), but not hooked up to the water main yet.
My 16 year old water heater tank begins leaking. I call my plumber to schedule an emergency replacement.
A water heater typically lasts about 12 years, so the previous one had had a good life. It’s age was known before I bought the house, so no nefarious activity was involved. However, the timing of this replacement certainly adds to my financial burden: another $440.00 in parts.
Several friends organize a fundraiser party to coincide with my birthday. The event draws 96 people and raises approximately $3000.00.
I begin dry-fitting conduit parts for a new household network. This will replace the non-functional telephone (RJ45) and CATV coax cable wall outlets the flipper had installed.
I draw up floor plans and apply for a residential building permit. This will cover the work done by my general contractor, and the remaining plumbing work that still needs to be inspected.
